A Spectral Shallow-water Wave Model with Nonlinear Energy- and Phase-evolution

Numerical wave modeling in oceanic and coastal waters is usually based on a phase-averaged approach (spectral models), whereas close to shore, in the surf zone and in harbors, it is usually based on a phase-resolving approach (time domain models). Both approaches can be formulated in terms of the energy and phase spectrum of the waves. In the present project we are developing a model in which both these spectra are computed simultaneously in one model set-up over a wide variety of scales (from the deep ocean to small-scale coastal regions).